It used to be the case that I’d recommend investing most of your money into lenses & still, in some cases, I’d say the same. However with the advancement of camera body sensors, autofocus & more, you have to consider the body too. That stated, buy as nice of lenses as you can afford; it makes a big difference. Most of the questions I receive from other photographers has to do more with the lens & it’s capabilities than it does the camera body. And, depending on what you want the image to look like, often depends primarily upon the robustness of the lens.

Today I want to offer recommendations on a variety of fixed focal length lenses. Most, with the exception of just a few, I’ve used numerous times & feel confident recommending. All have limits to their abilities, however, there are a few that seem to do everything I ask them to. I don’t own all of these lenses but I will differentiate the ones that I do (*) & regularly use. As well, I’ll try to offer a less expensive alternative when possible. As a note, about 1.5 years ago I made a decision to shoot primarily fixed length (prime) lenses. I found myself desiring to grow as a photographer & was eager for the extra image clarity when shooting with fixed glass. Although it requires more effort, it’s worth the labor. As I often say, I zoom with my feet! It’s proved a tremendous decision. I’ll begin this 3-part series with Part 1: Fixed-focal length lenses, followed by Part 2: Zoom Lenses & Part 3: Specialty Lenses. Further, I’ll look to find the equivalent for those Nikon users out there.

Lenses Part 1: Fixed Focal Length Lenses

Canon 24mm f/1.4L II*
I love so much about this lens. It’s tremendously fast; probably the fastest focusing lens I own. And, it will allow you to photograph with almost two more stops of light than most zooms. Aside from the 35mm 1/4, it may be one of the most ideal photojournalism lenses. I use it often for photographing architecture & interiors, children & families when indoor & restricted by space, & wedding receptions. You’ll notice some slight distortion on the edges if you’re not careful but it is easily manageable for my preferences. If you’re a Nikon shooter, you’ll want to check out the Nikkor 24mm f/1.4G ED.

Description (from Canon USA): Professional wide-angle lens with an ultra-large maximum aperture of f/1.4. This is the first EF lens to employ both a replicated Aspherical lens element to suppress distortion and spherical aberration, and a UD lens element to correct lateral chromatic aberration. Thanks to the floating construction, excellent corner-to-corner delineation is attained from 10 in. (25 cm) to infinity.

A variety of pics I’ve taken with the 24mm f/1.4L II:

Canon 24mm f/2.8
A less expensive alternative. From Canon, the 24mm f/2.8 is a highly popular wide-angle lens featuring a large aperture. Good for casual snapshots as well as perspective shots. Floating rear focusing system corrects astigmatism and gives high contrast and sharp delineation. The Nikon equivalent is the Nikkor 24mm f/2.8D.

Canon 28mm f/1.8
I’ve found it appropriate to recommend this lens on several occasions. I prefer the build quality over the 24mm f/2.8 plus you get 2 extra stops of light… yes! And, it’s a little tighter than the 24mm, but not as much as the 35mm. If I were a beginner or amateur & could own three relatively inexpensive but robust lenses, it would include the 28mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.4 & 85mm f/1.8. For the Nikon user, consider the Nikkor 28mm f/2.8.

From Canon, with the large maximum aperture, excellent background blur is possible with fast shutter speeds using the Canon 28mm f/1.8. The aspherical lens element makes the lens compact and corrects spherical aberrations. The image is sharp even at the edges.

Canon  35mm f/1.4
This is one desirable lens. As Henri Cartier Bresson stated, “The 35mm is THE CLASSIC Photojournalism lens.” The 35mm will likely be my next lens purchase. You could spend most of your career with this lens, coupled by the 50 f/1.2. I love the story-telling feel of this lens; I highly recommend it. In fact, if I had not bought the 24mm beforehand, I sometimes wonder if I would have ever purchased it. Nikon has an exceptional lens in their Nikkor 35mm f/1.4G.

Description (from Canon USA): L-series professional f/1.4 wide-angle lens with an Aspherical lens element to correct aberrations. The floating system enables high picture quality to be obtained over the entire focusing range. Autofocusing is quick and quiet with rear focusing and ring USM. Full-time manual focusing is also possible.

Canon 35mm f/2
A nice alternative to the Canon 35mm f/1.4. From Canon, this fast wide-angle lens with a minimum focusing distance of only 0.8′ allows you to approach the subject closer and still obtain a more natural wide-angle effect. Excellent background blur for portraits is obtainable. The Nikon equivalent is the Nikkor 35mm f/2D.

Canon 50mm f/1.2*
Let’s just say that I shoot with this lens 75% of the time; it’s my favorite. Until I recently purchased the 85mm f/1/2, the percentage would’ve been even higher. There are some things that I wish would improve with this lens, such as faster focusing & sharper images wide-open. However, when shooting at f/1.8 or f/2, it is somewhat unrivaled in color, clarity & bokeh (background blur). Plus, it fits my style nicely as it can convey an editorial/fashion feel. It is only limited by it’s focal length & therefore, I use it to shoot anything & everything.

Description (from Canon USA): The EF 50mm f/1.2L USM is a peerless new standard lens featuring an ultra-large aperture for a narrow depth of field and soft background blur so loved by photographers everywhere. The EF 50mm f/1.2L USM is suitable for any shooting situation; its lens coating and construction are optimized to minimize the ghosting and flare that frequently occurs when lenses are used with digital cameras. This high-performance, weather-resistant lens delivers all the superb image resolution and contrast you expect in a Canon L Series Lens.

A few examples of images taken with the 50mm f/1.2:

Canon 50mm f/1.4
If all you had available was around $500 for a lens, without reservation, I’d point you here. It’s normally my first recommendation for beginners & amateurs alike. However, many professionals still keep it in the bag. This lens has most of the features of the 50mm f/1.2 yet at a fraction of the cost. It will look it’s best when shooting at around f/2, allowing you to shoot in less than ideal lighting environments. If you don’t have a 50mm, buy this now! From Canon, the 50mm f/1.4 is a standard lens featuring superb quality and portability. Two high-refraction lens elements and new Gaussian optics eliminate astigmatism and suppress astigmatic difference. Crisp images with little flare are obtained even at the maximum aperture. All Nikon shooters, check out the Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G.

Canon 50mm f/1.8
If you only had around $150, this is your lens. Although the build quality seems rather cheap, you get much more than you pay for. Compared to other lenses, it’s light as a feather. From Canon, the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Autofocus Lens is a lightweight lens at a mere 4.6 oz (113.5 g). This compact and high-performance, standard lens features Gaussian optics that provide sharp delineation from near to far focusing distances. The color balance is excellent for a standard lens. The Nikon equivalent is the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D. Canon 85mm f/1.2*
I love this lens. It has quickly become a competitor to my 50mm f/1.2. This lens produces the highest quality images I’ve been able to achieve. It is certainly costly & a bit of an indulgence but it will produce stunning portraits of your children or family & wonderful professional headshots. I use it throughout wedding days, especially bridal portraits & low-light ceremonies. It effortlessly pulls your subject off it’s background creating the most wonderful bokeh you’ve ever witnessed.  I’m pretty sure I’d sell my car before parting with this bad-boy. Nikon has a really nice alternative in the Nikkor 85mm f/1.4D IF.

Description (from Canon USA): Retaining the impressive optical performance and large aperture of the original EF 85mm f/1.2L USM, this new medium telephoto lens uses a Ring-type USM, high-speed CPU and optimized algorithms to achieve an autofocus speed approximately 1.8x faster than the original. The high-speed AF and circular aperture create a shallow depth-of-field that brings attention to the subject and blurs the background, which is ideal for portraits and weddings. The floating optical system, which includes an aspherical lens element, suppresses aberrations and ensures excellent imaging performance.

Stay tuned for examples of images taken with the 85mm f/1.2.

Canon 85mm f/1.8
If you’re a man or woman of practicality, this is your lens. An excellent alternative to the pricey 85mm f/1.2. Affordable, fast-focusing & strong build-quality are just a few of it’s strengths. From Canon, the Canon 85mm f/1.8 USM Autofocus Lens is a highly practical medium telephoto lens with superb delineation and portability. Images are sharp and clear at all apertures. Through computer simulations, the lens has been designed to give beautiful background blur. Since the front lens group does not rotate during focusing, special filter effects are not affected. Nikon makes the Nikkor 85mm f/1.8D.

Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro IS*
My goodness this lens is sharp! I was looking for a somewhat wide-aperture mid-telephoto lens, coupled with IS (Image Stabilization), when I ran across this lens. Plus, the Macro feature is hard to beat for ring shots, flowers, & the tiniest of details. When I began shooting it, I really couldn’t believe how sharp the images. Now, for most wedding ceremonies, you’ll find it in use. And, for the price, it’s quite affordable. To my knowledge, Nikon doesn’t manufacture a comparable lens.

Description (from Canon USA): Canon’s newest “L” series lens is its first mid-telephoto macro lens to include Canon’s sophisticated Image Stabilization. With the highest quality optics available, combined with near-silent Ultrasonic focusing and life-size close-up capabilities without an adapter, the EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM is simply unrivaled. The Nikon user should consider the Nikkor-Micro 105mm f/2.8 VR.

A few examples of images taken with the 100mm f/2.8 Macro IS:

Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro
Since I own the IS version of this lens, I haven’t had a need for this lens, although I hear wonderful things about it. Many friends owned this lens before they came out with the IS version mentioned above. From Canon, the 100mm f/2.8 macro lens will focus over the full range from infinity down to life size (1:1 reproduction ratio). This lens will impress any serious photographer with its combination of versatility, image quality and superb handling. A high-performance ring type Ultrasonic Motor provides fast and silent AF throughout its focus range, and even more significantly, allows full-time manual focusing permitting the close-up or macro shooter to instantly override the AF whenever necessary. For the Nikon user, check out the Nikkor Micro 105mm f/2.8 VR or consider the Tokina 100mm f/2.8 Macro.

Canon 135mm f/2
This is a really fantastic lens. I owned it for a season & now regret selling it, often day-dreaming about it while on shoots. It is certainly on queue to be purchased again in the near future. You can easily shoot at f/2 pretty much exclusively & it happens to be one of the sharpest lenses Canon makes. This is a lens that is optically stunning and it’s focus is much faster than the 85mm f/1.2. I miss it! Nikon makes an equivalent, Nikkor 135mm f/2D.

Description (from Canon USA): The fastest 135mm telephoto lens in its class. Ideal for indoor sports and portraits with background blur. Two UD-glass elements correct secondary spectrum for outstanding sharpness and color. Compatible with Extender EF 1.4x II, 1.4x III and 2x II.

Canon 200mm f/2L IS
Everyone has the right to dream don’t they!? If I could afford a luxury lens, this would be my jewel. Coupled with a low aperture of f/2 & Image Stabilization, gives plenty of reason to spend more cash on this lens than my first vehicle. It’s ideal for indoor sports, theater work, fashion, and candids at events. Just consider the wedding ceremony images this lens could capture… wow! Nikon is well matched with their Nikkor 200mm f/2 G ED VR II.

Description (from Canon USA): This ultra-fast telephoto, a new member of Canon legendary L-series lenses, has totally new optics to provide better image quality. It uses fluorite and UD lens elements for excellent chromatic aberration correction and consists of 17 elements in 12 groups. The built-in Optical Image Stabilizer gives it up to 4 stops of stabilization correction. The inner USM and optimized AF algorithms result in fast and quiet autofocusing, and the circular aperture can even produce beautiful out-of-focus images. This ultra-high-performance lens also improves its durability – better dust- and water-proofing. The EF 200mm f/2L IS USM is outstanding for many available-light applications, including indoor sports, theater work, fashion, and candids at events.

Canon 200mm f/2.8
Back to reality now, the 200mm f/2.8 is a nice length with a fairly wide aperture. For my style, I find any lens that isn’t a f/2.8 or wider is too dark. Because I consistently find myself in low-light situations, I don’t own anything except f/2.8 or faster. I may consider adding this lens on down the road due to it’s focal length, affordability, & somewhat wide-aperture. Nikon boasts their Nikkor 200mm f/2.8 D ED-IF.

Description (from Canon USA): The EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM employs Canon’s famous rear-focus telephoto optical design that delivers outstanding picture quality throughout its entire focusing range. Like its high-end siblings, this lens also uses two ultra-low dispersion glass elements to ensure maximum image sharpness and accurate color fidelity. Canon’s advanced ultrasonic focusing motor & rear focusing design give silent, high speed autofocusing. It is perfectly suited for Canon’s EOS system cameras, placing special emphasis on manual focusing capabilities.

Conclusion:
You may be asking, “Is 200mm as wide as you’re going?” As of right now, yes. Because I’m primarily a wedding, lifestyle & editorial photographer, I don’t usually find myself beyond these focal lengths. As you can see, there is no paucity in options. Lenses can be very expensive & in some cases, only worth the extra cash if you’ll have a return on the investment or can afford the nicer equipment. I’m a firm believer to buy the best lenses you can afford. If not, as you grow as a photographer you may find yourself frustrated with the limits of your lenses. When I started investing in fast, high-quality lenses, I was set free from many limits & only rarely find myself prohibited except by my imagination. In the near future I’ll share Part 2: Zoom Lenses. It will be particularly helpful for the majority of my readers who would rather invest in one or two all-purpose lenses. I’ll be glad to recommend my favorites! Stay tuned. Was this helpful? If so, let me know. Thanks!

Camera Bodies

Canon EOS 5D Mark II
My weapon of choice is the Canon EOS 5D Mark II. I’ve been using these bodies for about a year and a half now & for the most part have loved them. If I had the extra $ I could easily reason upgrading to the Canon EOS 1D Mark IV, although there’s yet to present a situation that the 5D Mark II didn’t handle well. Plus with two kids & one on the way, it won’t be anytime soon! I realized the need for the upgrade from the popular 5D when I continually found myself in low-lighting situations that it couldn’t handle. Yet with the 5D Mark II you achieve incredible noise control even at high ISO settings (i.e. 3200), thus allowing you more flexibility in less than ideal lighting. For shooting stills, you’d be hard pressed to find a body that produces as clean of skin tones, colors & gradiations of tones. It’s really ideal for the photographer who’s looking to invest in a very solid prosumer body. You won’t be disappointed. And although I’m not a videographer, I would be remiss not to mention it’s video functionality as well. It boasts one of the largest video sensors on the market & has become quite the staple for filmmakers. Rumor is that one season of “House” was filmed with this bad boy. Ideal for the Advanced Amateur & Professional. Consider the Nikon D700 as a nice alternative, though not nearly as robust in my opinion.

Description (from Canon USA): Canon’s update to the wildly popular full frame EOS 5D is here, and it’s better than ever. The EOS 5D Mark II has a stunning 21.1-megapixel full-frame CMOS sensor with DIGIC 4 Image Processor, a vast ISO Range of 100-6400 (expandable to ISO L: 50, H1: 12800 and H2: 25600), plus EOS technologies like Auto Lighting Optimizer and Peripheral Illumination Correction. It supports Live View shooting, Live View HD videos, and more. It can shoot up to 3.9 fps, has 9 AF points plus 6 AF assist points, a new 98% coverage viewfinder, a 3.0-inch Clear View LCD (920,000 dots/VGA) and a rugged build.

• 21.1 Megapixel Full-Frame Sensor
• 3.0″ High Resolution LCD Display
• Live View Mode
• 1080p Movie Mode
• Dust & Weather-Resistant
• Self Cleaning Sensor
• Broad ISO Range (50-25600)
• 3.9 fps Burst Mode

Canon EOS 7D
The Canon EOS 7D. I find it somewhat hard to say anything negative about this body. In it’s price class, it’s unrivaled. If you want to upgrade from a consumer level body such as the Rebel series, I’d highly recommend this as your next step. You’d save around $1000 compared to the 5D & would see a considerable difference to your entry level DSLRs. There are only two reasons why I prefer the 5D Mark II. First, the sensor is considerably smaller than the 5D, 60% smaller if I’m not mistaken (1.6x crop factor). What does that mean? The smaller the sensor, the more noise you’ll get. Second, it’s performance in low light is inferior to the 5D. And quite frankly, that’s a big deal to me. As someone who prefers using available light, I like to be able to max out the capabilities of both my bodies & my lenses. Yet, the 7D has considerable advantages over the 5D in two areas. First, the 7D has twice as fast Frames Per Second burst rate (fps), 8fps verses the 5D’s 3.9 fps, which makes it perfect for action photography… sports, racing, small children! The second advantage is in regards to video. Most videographers would prefer it as it seems more suited for such. Ideal for the Amateur, Advanced Amateur & Professional. The equivalent in the Nikon world seems to be the Nikon D300s.

Description (from Canon USA): With a host of brand new features designed to enhance every facet of the photographic process, from still images to video, the new EOS 7D represents a whole new class of camera. Made to be the tool of choice for serious photographers and semi-professionals, the EOS 7D features an all-new 18.0 Megapixel APS-C size CMOS sensor and Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processors, capturing tremendous images at up to ISO 12800 and speeds of up to 8 fps. The EOS 7D has a new all cross-type 19-point AF system with improved AI Servo II AF subject tracking and user-selectable AF area selection modes for sharp focus no matter the situation.

• 18.0 Megapixels
• 3.0″ LCD
• HD Video Recording
• Selectable Video Exposure + Frame Rates
• Dust & Weather Resistant
• 100% Viewfinder
• Self Cleaning Sensor
• High Sensitivity (ISO 12800)
• 8fps Burst Mode

Canon EOS 60D
I’ve yet to have the opportunity to test drive this new body but based upon the specs I can confidently say that it’s an impressive tool. When I’m able to test it, I’ll update this section. Ideal for the Beginner & Amateur. Check out the Nikon D7000 as an alternative.

Description (from Canon USA): With the new EOS 60D DSLR, Canon gives the photo enthusiast a powerful tool fostering creativity, with better image quality, more advanced features and automatic and in-camera technologies for ease-of-use. It features an improved APS-C sized 18.0 Megapixel CMOS sensor for tremendous images, a new DIGIC 4 Image Processor for finer detail and excellent color reproduction, and improved ISO capabilities from 100 – 6400 (expandable to 12800) for uncompromised shooting even in the dimmest situations. The new Multi-control Dial enables users to conveniently operate menus and enter settings with a simple touch. The EOS 60D also features an EOS first: A Vari-angle 3.0-inch Clear View LCD (1,040,000 dots) monitor for easy low- or high-angle viewing. An improved viewfinder, a number of new in-camera creative options and filters, plus HDMI output for viewing images on an HDTV all make the EOS 60D invaluable for the evolving photographer.

• 18MP APS-C CMOS Sensor
• 1920 x 1080 HD Video Capture
• SD/SDHC/SDXC Memory Card Slot
• Vari-Angle Clear View 3.0″ Flip-Out LCD
• DIGIC 4 Image Processor
• 5.3 fps Continuous Shooting
• Works with all Canon EF and EF-S Lenses
• ISO 6400 – Expandable to 12800
• HDMI Output to HDTV
• In-Camera Editing Options

Canon Rebel T2i
The Rebel series will always be a bit sentimental for me; it’s where I got my start. I talked Joy into letting me spend some of our savings on my first DSLR & we bought a digital Rebel. I probably only used it for a little over a year but I guarantee you I recorded tens of thousands of images; it was a workhorse. For the entry-level DSLR photographer, these bodies are simply hard to beat. Although missing many of the features that a prosumer camera would possess, they are quite impressive. The price tag on a Rebel appeals to a much larger audience & seems ideal for most people’s starting point. For the shopper in the <$700 range, it’s the right choice. If you can spend $700 more, the 7D is definitely worth the extra bling! Ideal for the Beginner & Amateur. The Nikon D90 seems to boast similar specs.

Description (from Canon USA): The new flagship of the EOS Rebel line, Canon EOS Rebel T2i brings professional EOS features into an easy to use, lightweight digital SLR that’s a joy to use. Featuring a class-leading 18.0 Megapixel CMOS Image Sensor and increased light sensitivity for low light photography, the EOS Rebel T2i also has an advanced HD Movie mode for gorgeous Full HD movies. Able to capture up to 3.7 frames per second, it’s ready to go the minute it’s picked up. Advanced Live View, a new wide-area screen, plus features like Canon’s brilliant Auto Lighting Optimizer and Highlight Tone features ensure brilliant photos and movies, easily.

• 18.0 MP CMOS (APS-C) Sensor
• Full HD 1080p Video
• Advanced Live View
• 3.0″ 1.04 Million Dot Clear View LCD
• Up to 3.7 fps RAW, JPEG, or RAW+JPEG
• ISO 100-6400, Expandable to 12800
• 63-Zone Metering / 9-Point AF System
• Compatible with SD, SDHC, and SDXC
• Eye-Fi Menu Status Indicator Support

Conclusion
As you can see there are several great options for different user levels. Canon has done a pretty good job of meeting the needs of beginners, amateurs, advanced amateurs & professionals. There isn’t a body mentioned above that won’t capture fantastic images given the user’s ability to control the settings, properly compose a subject & shoot. You can’t underestimate the value of knowing your camera inside & out. And although camera bodies are a necessity, I find there’s an even better investment that will more rapidly advance your abilities as a photographer… the lens! Lenses have the ability to make good camera bodies look great. In my next gear guide it seems appropriate that I discuss my favorite lenses as well as my recommendations for alternatives at various price points. Until then, let me know how I can expand on these guides to better help you. I hope you enjoy!

“Ben, this is awesome. One thing I hear a lot of different opinions about is ISO. Maybe you could comment on that sometime? I’ve heard some people say that an ISO > 400 is never ideal b/c of “noise” in the background, but if you want an indoor pic sans flash sometimes that’s the only option. Is it possible to use a higher ISO and still get a good quality photo that is able to be enlarged?”

Here’s my video response. (Warning… I have a bit of a cold so I’m a little sniffly… sorry!)

Heather, I disagree with the advice you’ve received. I think it is more preferential than it is rule, opinion rather than principle. I love shooting at higher ISO settings. As a recap from the video, ISO refers to how sensitive the image sensor {in digital photography} is to the available light. The higher the ISO setting, the more sensitive the sensor, resulting in the ability to photograph in lower lighting.When shooting film, ISO refers to the speed of the film, measuring the sensitivity of the negative material (aka film) to light.

Let’s be real practical here for a moment. What if you find yourself in a poorly lit environment & would rather not use your flash, what do you do? You begin by trying to shoot at an ISO setting of about 320. Next, maybe you try to widen your aperture, choosing to shoot at around an f/2. Works pretty good except the shutter speed is still too slow {ex. 1/6} & the subject is somewhat fuzzy. Your next thought needs to be, “let me increase my ISO settings so that I can shoot with a faster shutter speed & get a sharper image.” So you bump your ISO to 800 or 1200 or 1600… whatever you can in order to achieve the look you were going for. My first thought when faced with less than optimal lighting conditions (low light) is always, “can I shoot with a wider aperture?” Thus allowing more light to enter the lens. If that doesn’t work, I then bump up the ISO setting. For me personally, I’m usually always trying to shoot at the widest aperture possible. Then, depending on the situation, I adjust the ISO.

Below are some images I shot with a really high ISO yet really love the look & feel they portray. Plus, allowing a bit of “noise” in the image gives you an opportunity to differentiate yourself from the always expected.

I referenced this wedding detail image in the video. {ISO 3200, 35mm, f/2.8, 1/500 sec}. This was shot with the Canon 24-70 f/2.8.

{ISO 3200, 24mm, f/2.8, 1/60 sec}

I really love this image. To me it has a strong cinematic feel to it… as though it was taken a long time ago, expressing emotion. I’m not sure it would have the same feel without the grain. {ISO 3200, 40mm, f/2.8, 1/50 sec}

And the same goes for people shots too! When I was photographing these twins I couldn’t really afford to shoot with a lower ISO… it’s one of my favorite images! {ISO 1250, 50mm, f/1.8, 1/320 sec}

As you can tell, I don’t always stray away from shooting at a high ISO setting. In fact, sometimes I prefer it. What do you think? Does this post help you better understand ISO settings? Has it given you a new appreciation for grain/noise in images? Let me know what you think. Thanks friends!

“I have been trying to get some new pictures of our staff here at NHBC. I have in mind that we use a brick wall or some outdoor shot. I really like the effect of the background being out of focus and the person in the foreground being sharply in focus, giving a bit of depth to the picture. The…re’s a guy in the church that does a lot of photography and has been trying to get me what I want, but it isn’t working out. He keeps trying to take pics of us, cut us out, and place us in another pic that he took as a background and has blurred. He does this in Photoshop, but it really doesn’t look good. I’ve seen this effect on many of your photos (i.e. – “The Roberts” pics on your blog) and it looks incredible. Is there anything I can do to get this effect with my Canon digital SLR? I only have the one lens that can with it (18-55, I think). Any tips would be much appreciated!”

On a side note, you should’ve seen me trying to make this movie to explain the contents of this post. Tragic! This is much more challenging than I thought. As a lesson in humility I thought I would leave it up & let you watch (the picture below links to my YouTube video). A bit of a glitch in the first 2-3 seconds but it clears up afterward.

What is an Aperture? Depending on what you are wanting to capture affects what aperture you choose. Simply put, aperture is a term that describes how wide or narrow the lens opens. This affects what part of the image stays in focus. It almost deals exclusively with your lens not your camera body. Many people, when referring to aperture, use the term depth-of-field.  In short, if you want very little to be in focus, with the exception of the subject, you want a big aperture (low number… f/1.2, 2.0, etc.). In contrast, if you want everything to be equally in focus, you are looking for a small aperture (high number… f/16, 20, etc.). You will be limited to how wide & narrow of an aperture you can shoot by your lens. I made the statement in the video, “Generally speaking, the wider the aperture, the more expensive the lens will be.” That’s not necessarily the case; I clarify. Yet, the wider the aperture, the more flexibility you have over your images. I’ll show a few select images for further clarification.

Consider these images of Isabelle, you’ll see the focus is on her eyes & the rest of the focus falls apart, blurring as it moves away from her eyes. That blur is called “Bokeh.” This was shot at the widest aperture my lens allows, f/1.2. {ISO 500, 50mm, f/1.2, 1/250sec}

Same here in this pic of my son, Brennan. Specs {ISO 1500, 50mm, f/1.2, 1/250sec}

In shots with more than one person, I generally try to get everyone on the same plane & shoot with as wide an aperture as possible. Yet, you must be careful as you want everyone to be in focus. Specs {ISO 800, 50mm, f/1.8, 1/500 sec}.

Another example from the same wedding. Specs {ISO 400, 50mm, f/1.8, 1/640 sec}

In contrast, in this picture I was shooting an interior for a magazine. For these types of shots, I want everything to be in focus… as clean & sharp as possible. My aperture, therefore, is as narrow as I could achieve. Specs {ISO 200, 24mm, f/22, 5.0 sec}

Is this starting to make sense? The more narrow the aperture, the more things will be in focus in the image. If you want to achieve a “bokeh” effect, you may want to invest in a lens that allows a wider aperture (lower number).

A few links explaining aperture in further detail:

• The Pioneer Woman: http://thepioneerwoman.com/photography/. Scroll down to the right & you’ll see the heading “Read this Series”. She’s done an incredible job with her four part series “What the Heck is an Aperture?” Excellent resource!
• Darren Rowse {Digital Photography School}: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/aperture

A few lens resources I mentioned in my video:

• Canon 50mm 1.8: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html/BI/7571_/KBID/8097
• Canon 50mm 1.4: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12140-USA/Canon_2515A003_50mm_f_1_4_USM_Autofocus.html /BI/7571_/KBID/8097
• Nikon 50mm 1.4: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/585343-USA/Nikon_2180_AF_S_Nikkor_50mm_f_1_4G.html /BI/7571_/KBID/8097

Hope that helps friends… let me know what you think. Comment like you mean it!! If you have further questions, I’ll try to answer as soon as I can. Thanks!

Running your own business is complicated, heck, running your own life is complicated. There are dozens of wonderful tools for personal & business now available for each of us… Evernote, Dropbox, Things, ShootQ & Pictage (for you photographers), & etc. For the most part, I use each of the above, yet, what I’ve found to be my “must-have” tool of choice, is my Moleskine. It’s no over-statement, I love my Moleskine. Without it, I feel naked… or brainless. It’s my control center in many respects.

I’ve been using a Pocket Moleskine for several years & decided  for 2011 to customize it according to my needs, aka “hack.” There are dozens of excellent Moleskine Hack articles online, among my favorite is the comprehensive article by Freelance Switch here. Inspired by David Allen’s book, Getting Things Done, many geeks like myself (it’s true, I am!) are using the systems he mentions to be more productive & organized. I thought I’d share a few of the customizations I made to my Pocket Moleskine. Cheers to an organized life!!

The view of my desk from above… yes, in most situations, I’m rather passionate about keeping it uncluttered.
I used the first 105 pages to draw out a 2011 calendar. As you can see, I numbered the odd pages. This week was pretty open so I still have plenty of room for tasks. Of course there are several tasks that I completed that I didn’t write down, but as they come to mind, it keeps me on track if I write them down.
(L) A bit more information on how I mark my tasks. If you have any additional questions, let me know & I’ll try to explain. (R) Following the calendar, I’ve blocked off 40 pages titled, “People.” This section is reserved for brief descriptions of client projects. In the upper left hand corner is the client name, followed by the project info, notes, & deadline or milestones. In the “Notes” section, I usually jot down creative ideas concerning the project or questions I might have for the client.
(L) My next section I blocked off was the “Ideas” section (30 pages total). This is where I write down ideas or thoughts concerning goals, work, family, vacation/trips, etc. Seems perfect when I’m lying in bed & have a creative thought & need to jot it down. (R) At the very back of the book I’ve left 7 pages for “Book/Resources” list. These aren’t necessarily organized by priority, just a way to list books & magazines I want to purchase when funds are available. When they are purchased, I’ll check them off.
Below is a section, pages 177-191, reserved for “Learning” (btw, this includes the above “Books/Resources” section). One of my goals is to memorize more Scripture. While I’m in the early stages of memorizing, I always write down the passage… since I carry this book in my back pocket, I can review the verses practically anytime. I’m also doing a separate Moleskine for memorizing Philippians, thanks to the efforts of Timmy Brister, Partnering to Remember… definitely worth checking out!
Of course, I use the back pocket to file receipts. When I return to the office, I file them accordingly… makes tax season a breeze!
I’m sure I’ll get to 2012 & want to make several adjustments but I’m really excited about this year’s organizational efforts. If you have any questions or additional comments, please feel free to let me know… I’m always open to learning from you. And/or, if you fall into the category of “I’m so disorganized, I need help asap!” let me know… I’d love to help. What do you think, is this helpful?

Following Ansel & Lisa’s Key Largo, FL wedding, Joy & I (along with our partners in action, the Princes) decided it would be a shame to be so close to the beach & not stay for a few days. We’re strategic like that! So… we planned beforehand to spend the remainder of the week at Pompano Beach. We had little scheduled with the exception of lounging by the ocean, catching up on reading, eating great seafood, & taking lots of pictures. It was perfect!

Although we were on vacation, I’m kind of a big nerd & can rarely sleep past 7:30am. Wait, speaking of big nerds, Ryan Prince spent the majority of vacation reading the unabridged version of the classic, The Count of Monte Cristo by Dumas. Folks, we’re talking over 1300 pages; he’s a certified geek. And, while I’m off subject, if you want one of the best sandwiches you’ve ever imagined, try the Monte Cristo at the Spot of Tea in Mobile, AL; grab a glass of Strawberry Sweet Tea while you’re at it. You can thank me later (& you will)! I digress. Yes, even though I’m on vacation I usually wake up before 7am, usually 6:15 or so. I haven’t always been this way but realized shortly after college that I can accomplish more between the hours of 6am-9am than I can between 9am-2pm. I try to be disciplined & wake up early. There are less interruptions & generally speaking, my mind is most focused during these hours. Not to mention, the early morning lighting is perfect for natural light photography!!

You’ve likely heard it before that the prime hours for photography are the few hours following sunrise & before sunset. There is a reason. First, the lighting is not as harsh resulting in relatively no shadows cascading from objects. It’s the same as over-cast days; it’s as though God hooked you up with a sky-sized softbox. Praise-a-lujah! Second, you can generally see a hue of colors throughout the sky that aren’t generally visible during other hours. Third, the weather is generally more mild. Don’t you just love the feeling of the cool morning air?! I could go on but you get the point.

Somewhat regularly, I am asked questions pertaining to photography. People have cameras but don’t necessarily understand much beyond the Full-Auto mode. I am asked such things as “How do you focus on your subject & let the background blur?”, “What’s the difference between a shutter speed & an aperture?”, “What is an ISO?”, “How do you photograph landscapes?”, “How do you photograph children?”, “How do you shoot without using a flash?”, “What editing software do you recommend?”, & etc. Therefore, I thought it may be beneficial to address these types of questions as they arise. Along the way, I will refer you to many fantastic photographers & friends who have tackled similar subjects well beyond my ability to do so.

I thought it appropriate to begin with an area that many pro photographer friends of mine seem to constantly affirm… shooting landscapes. And, it gives me a reason to post some of my recent favorite landscapes from Pompano Beach.

Aside from my suggestion to getting your booty out of bed early & arranging your evening schedule to catch the hours before sunrise, there’s certainly an art to photographing landscapes. Let me put a few thoughts out there for you:

The Rule of Thirds: Essentially, this rule breaks an image down into thirds, both vertically & horizontally, resulting in 9 squares. When you frame (or compose) your shot, there are certain places you should put your “points of interest” or “subject.” When doing so, it adds balance to your image & makes it more interesting. For a helpful article check out, check out Darren Rowse over at Digital Photography School, click here. Notice on the image below that the pier is in the lower third of the image (horizontal) yet I’ve framed the lifeguard stand on the right third (vertical). [ISO 100, 50mm, f/16, 1/10]

Exposure: Exposure can be somewhat subjective. One photographer wants the foreground exposed, the other wants the background, & then the spoiled want both (especially those HDR guys!). It’s different for differing styles of photography. For example, when I shoot weddings & portraits, I generally could care less about the background. I want the subject (in this example, bride & groom) to be be exposed properly. In the image below, I thought it would be cool to expose for the sun & sky while allowing the pier to silhouette. If I would’ve exposed for the pier, the sky would’ve washed out & you would not have been able to see the details in the sky. [ISO 50, 50mm, f/16, 1/25]
Aperture: Depending on what you are wanting to capture affects what aperture you choose. Simply put, aperture is a term that describes how wide or narrow the lens opens. This affects what part of the image stays in focus. It almost deals exclusively with your lens not your camera body. Many people, when referring to aperture, use the term depth-of-field. Explaining aperture is an entire blog post within itself (I promise to do so soon!). In short, if you want very little to be in focus, with the exception of the subject, you want a big aperture (low number… f/1.2, 2.0, etc.). In contrast, if you want everything to be equally in focus, you are looking for a small aperture (high number… f/16, 20, etc.). A helpful article you may want to check out is everyone’s favorite cowgirl, Ree Drummond aka The Pioneer Woman, who wrote two blog posts entitled “What the Heck is an Aperture?” For the image below I wanted everything to be in focus so I chose to shoot at f/22. [ISO 50, 24mm, f/22, 1/6]
Of course there is much more to keep in mind & there’s a ton of things I failed to include. For beginners, I highly recommend purchasing a nice tripod & head. All of the above images were shot using a tripod. And, it’s beneficial to read the manuals that come with your camera & lens. On down the road, I will spend some discussing additional principles of photography including aperture, shutter speed, shooting modes, ISO, focal length, editing software, etc. In the meantime, if you know anyone that might find this article beneficial, please pass it on. And, if you have any questions, feel free to ask & I’ll respond as soon as I can. Thanks friends, enjoy!!!

And, since every blog post needs a picture, here’s my little man Knox with his Elvis glasses on.

When we bought our house we loved the extra 160 square feet screened-in back porch just off the kitchen. But as I thought about bringing my office home, I knew this space would be ideal. With blazing hot summers & cold winters, I was going to have to close in the space. I began researching & designing the space, gathering materials, begging my Father-in-law & dad to help, & eventually beginning the renovation. We did all the renovation ourselves & saved a ton of money… you wouldn’t believe the final cost. I will spare some of the details but I designed the space to echo my Ben Finch Photography brand. There are a few things missing… I’m saving to add a couch & coffee table, signage, & a large plasma/LCD TV to show clients their session photos. Here it is so far with it’s wonderful natural light pouring in… drum roll please!!

One of the challenges & benefits of moving to such a small space is that it forces you to simplify. Everything in the office serves a purpose now. The suitcases & trunk both house photo equipment & office supplies. The couch & coffee table will serve as a workstation when I have meetings with my designers & photography associates. And I have areas for temporary & permanent filing… it’s an organizational dream!

Leave me a comment below & let me know what you think. If you have any questions about the benefits/challenges of running a business (or two) from home or feel free to shoot me an email or leave a comment. Or, if you have any questions for that matter… I’ll be glad to try to answer.

Here are a few pics of the area beforehand as I was measuring for windows. These images remind me of how hard it was to keep the screened-in porch clean… it drove me crazy! Not any more!!

There are only a few phrases available in the English language that convey how much I love my new camera lens. I find myself saying things like, “Are you kidding me?”, “Duuuuuddddeee, that’s amazing!”, “It’s a beautiful thing… simply beautiful” & “Wicky, wicky, uh!” (sorry… when I get really excited I have a habit of saying ‘wicky, wicky, uh!’ as if I were a white rapper & scratching a vinyl record on my turntable resulting in the ‘wicky, wicky, uh’ sound). Back to the lecture at hand, all I’m saying is that as a photographer, the quality of light at 1.2 is gorgeous. I’ve yet to shoot at any other aperture since putting the lens on. It’s quickly becoming my favorite lens. If you want a great post on the 50 1.2, check out my friend Melissa Jill’s post here.

Although I haven’t shot a session with it yet, I’m looking forward to doing so tomorrow. I’m super stoked. But, in the meantime, I had to play around with it around the house. Here are some shots from last week:

Here’s Brennan in our ’89 Wagoneer.

My little man, Knox, with his crazy baby giggle.

Brennan is looking like a little model; I wish I had some yellow pants like that.

My dad with Knox & Capri, our friends Don & Alison Nation’s little girl.

Next thing I know, Brennan is running around pantless in the back yard. Knox was busy swinging when I caught his attention.

My lovely bride with our Knox, aka Little Ben.

Saturday night we went to see our friends Gil & Melanie Balch & their little girls, Isabelle & Ava. We grilled burgers & played our guitars on the front porch… good times indeed! Gil has instruments all over the house; Brennan knows what to do with a guitar.

Gosh… I love these kids.

Melanie & Isabelle; I love that look she’s giving me.

The newest little Balch girl, Ava.

Look at those eyes… wow!

Gil is one the most talented guys I know. Aside from his ability to grow the perfect beard, he can play practically every instrument out there… incredible.

Here is a great example of shooting in fairly low lighting conditions, yet at 1.2, it’s no problem.

Knox, our little dinosaur.